Choosing Cosmetic Products

Choosing cosmetic products can feel confusing with so many brands, claims and ingredient lists on shop shelves. A little knowledge about UK labelling rules and simple safety checks helps you pick products that suit your skin and budget, and avoid ones that might cause irritation. This chapter walks through what UK law requires, how to read a label properly, why the PAO symbol matters, and how patch testing can protect your skin before you commit to a full-size product.

What does UK cosmetic law actually require?

UK law requires every cosmetic product sold here to meet strict safety standards before it reaches shelves.

Cosmetic products sold in the UK must comply with the UK Cosmetic Regulation, which is enforced by the Office for Product Safety and Standards (OPSS). This sets rules on ingredient safety, manufacturing, labelling and the claims a brand can make. Manufacturers must hold a safety assessment for each product and register it with the relevant authority before sale. This doesn't mean every product suits everyone, but it does mean that serious safety testing has already happened before you buy it.

The regulation also sets out a list of banned and restricted substances, meaning ingredients linked to serious harm cannot legally be used in UK cosmetics. Businesses must also appoint a "responsible person" based in the UK or EU who can be contacted if there's a safety concern. Knowing this system exists can give you more confidence when buying from established UK retailers, though it's still worth doing your own checks, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies.

How do you read a cosmetics label properly?

A cosmetics label tells you what's inside, how to use it safely and when to stop using it.

By law, labels must list ingredients in descending order of weight, using International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) names. Look out for:

• The full ingredients list, usually on the packaging or an attached leaflet
• Usage instructions and any warnings, such as "avoid eye area"
• The country of origin and responsible person's address
• Net contents, usually shown in grams or millilitres
• Any fragrance allergens that must be listed separately above a certain concentration

If the packaging is too small to fit everything, manufacturers can use a leaflet, tag or tape instead, with a symbol on the pack pointing you to it. Always check this additional information if you're trying to avoid a specific ingredient.

Spotting marketing claims versus facts

Words like "natural", "dermatologist tested" or "clinically proven" are not strictly regulated terms, so treat them as marketing rather than guarantees. Instead, check the actual ingredients list for anything you know you react to. A product described as "natural" can still contain synthetic preservatives, and a product labelled "fragrance-free" may still contain masking fragrance ingredients, so read carefully rather than relying on the front of the pack.

What is the PAO symbol and why does it matter?

The PAO symbol shows how many months a product stays safe to use once opened.

It looks like a small open jar with a number followed by "M", such as "12M" or "6M". This matters because preservatives in a product break down over time once air gets in, which can let bacteria grow. Using an out-of-date product, especially around the eyes or on broken skin, raises the risk of irritation or infection. Products that come in sealed, airless pump packaging sometimes don't need a PAO symbol at all, since they're less exposed to air and contamination.

It's worth writing the date you opened a product somewhere discreet, such as on the base with a marker pen, so you can track when it's due for replacing. This is especially useful for eye and lip products, which sit close to delicate areas and are more likely to be shared or dipped into with fingers.

PAO symbol	Typical product	Why it matters
6M	Mascara, liquid eyeliner	Used near eyes, higher infection risk
12M	Foundation, moisturiser	Regular use, moderate exposure to air
24M	Powder products, some lipsticks	Lower water content, lasts longer

Why should you patch test new products?

Patch testing helps you spot a reaction before you apply a new product to your whole face.

To patch test, apply a small amount of product to a clean area, such as the inside of your elbow or behind your ear, and leave it for 24 to 48 hours without washing it off. If you notice redness, itching, swelling or burning, wash it off straight away and avoid using that product again. This is particularly important for leave-on products like moisturisers and serums, which stay on the skin for longer periods than rinse-off products such as cleansers.

1. Choose a small, discreet area of skin, such as the inner forearm.
2. Apply a small amount of the product and leave it uncovered.
3. Wait 24 to 48 hours, checking regularly for any reaction.
4. If no reaction occurs, the product is likely suitable for wider use.
5. If irritation appears, rinse off immediately and stop using the product.

This step matters most for new skincare, hair dye and products for sensitive skin. For more detail on managing reactive or easily irritated skin, see our chapter on sensitive skin care. Keep in mind that a patch test on your arm doesn't always predict exactly how a product will behave on your face, since facial skin can be thinner and more reactive, so introduce new products gradually even after a successful patch test.

How can you choose products suited to your skin type?

Matching products to your actual skin type reduces the chance of breakouts, dryness or irritation.

Think about whether your skin tends to be oily, dry, combination or sensitive, and look for products labelled accordingly. It also helps to understand what common ingredients do, which we cover in our guide to cosmetic ingredients explained. Building simple daily habits around the right products is covered further in our beauty care routines chapter, which explains how to layer products correctly for best results.

Buying from reputable sellers

Counterfeit cosmetics sold through unofficial online marketplaces sometimes contain banned or harmful ingredients, and may not have been safety tested at all. Buying from known retailers or the brand directly reduces this risk, and genuine UK-sold products should always carry proper labelling and a UK responsible person's details. Be cautious of prices that seem unusually low for well-known brands, as this can be a sign of counterfeit stock.

Considering your budget sensibly

A higher price doesn't automatically mean a better or safer product. Many affordable options meet the same regulatory standards as premium brands, and the right choice often comes down to personal preference, texture and how your skin responds, rather than cost alone. If you're exploring plant-based or organic ranges, our chapter on natural and organic cosmetics explains what those labels actually mean.

When should you ask a pharmacist or GP for advice?

A pharmacist or GP can help if a product causes a reaction or if you have ongoing skin concerns.

If you develop persistent redness, swelling, blistering or any reaction that doesn't settle quickly, stop using the product and speak to a pharmacist. For more serious or recurring issues, your GP may refer you to a dermatologist. The NHS and the British Skin Foundation both offer general guidance on skin reactions and when to seek help. It can also help to bring the product packaging or ingredients list with you, so a pharmacist or doctor can see exactly what you've been using.

Key takeaways

• UK cosmetics must meet the UK Cosmetic Regulation, overseen by OPSS, before sale.
• Labels list ingredients by weight and should include usage warnings and net contents.
• The PAO symbol tells you how long a product stays safe to use after opening.
• Patch testing for 24 to 48 hours can help you avoid reactions to new products.
• Speak to a pharmacist or GP if a product causes a persistent or worsening reaction.

Frequently asked questions

What is the UK Cosmetic Regulation?

It's the law covering cosmetic product safety, labelling and claims in the UK, enforced by the Office for Product Safety and Standards.

What does the PAO symbol look like?

It's a small open jar icon with a number and "M", such as "12M", showing how many months the product is safe to use once opened.

How long should I patch test a new product?

Generally 24 to 48 hours on a small area of skin, checking for redness, itching or swelling before wider use.

Are "natural" or "dermatologist tested" claims regulated?

These terms are not strictly defined by law, so check the ingredients list rather than relying on marketing claims alone.

What should I do if a cosmetic product irritates my skin?

Stop using it immediately, wash the area, and speak to a pharmacist; see a GP if the reaction is severe or doesn't settle.

Sources

• GOV.UK: Cosmetic products regulations and safety (OPSS)
• NHS: Contact dermatitis
• British Skin Foundation